Modifying the Motorbike

Fuel Quality Adjustments

I've read about problems with low octane fuel used with relatively high compression ratio motorcycle engines. People have discussed the pros and cons of lowering compression ratios, altering ignition timings, alternate ignition mapping, changing the position of the piston sensor, etc. However, the simplest, cheapest, and probably the most effective solution suggested by Chris Scott in AMH was to take a bottle of Octane Booster. As the name suggests, Octane Booster is a fuel additive that can be added to low octane fuel to improve performance.

If you have an older model motorbike or one that is not fuel injected you might want to put in an in-line fuel filter. The paper filter ones are supposed to be most effective and easy to clean (by back washing with clean fuel). I've read that in very hot countries you can get vapor lock in these filters because the external heat evaporates the fuel in the filter. To remedy this try and shade and/or insulate the filter from the sun/heat source. Newer motorbikes, with electronically controlled fuel injection have very good fuel filters in-built so I wouldn't mess around with the system.

Air Quality Adjustments

If the area you are going is not dusty and you can take with you or purchase replacement air filters on your trip then keep the OEM air filter. My Honda service manual suggests replacing the air filter at 12,000 miles or 18 months, which is plenty of miles/time for most situations. However, I know I'm going to some fairly dusty environments so I decided to replace my OEM filter with a reusable oiled foam air filter. I am using a Pipercross reusable air filter. Rather than replacing it I just take it out, treat the filter element with Air Filter Cleaner Additive solution coat the cleaned filter element with Air Filter Dirt Retention Additive and then put it back in place.

I think there are quite a few other suppliers of reusable, multi-layered oiled-foam filters such as Twin Air, Multi Air or Uni Filter. I went with Piper Cross based on information I read in motorcycle forums.

Chain Slack and Suspension Adjustments

Set the chain slack and wheel alignment when the motorcycle is fully loaded with all your equipment (and you). It is better for your chain to be slightly slack than too tight. An over-tight chain can cause serious damage to your engine and premature wear to the chain and sprockets. Check your motorcycle user manual or Haynes Service & Repair manual for the correct chain slack measurements.

If you are adding large loads to your motorcycle (say for long motorbiking tours) you will need to check the suspension of the bike when fully loaded. You don't want the suspension bottoming out. Again check the user manual and adjust the stiffness settings for your needs. You might also need to alter the angle of your headlight if the weight of the load on your bike is pushing the rear down resulting in the front pointing upwards.

Bodywork Adjustments

I replaced the standard/factory wind shield on my motorbike with a higher one, made by Givi. The difference in riding comfort and noise reduction is amazing. A quick search on Google for after-market windshield and your make of motorcycle should come up with a few.

I replaced the factory, plastic engine guard with an aluminum one, made by SW-Motech.

I added crash bars, made by SW-Motech, to try and limit any damage if/when I drop the bike.

I also fitted a centre stand, made by SW-Motech, so that I could do things like adjust chain and wheel alignment and repair punctures.

If you're going somewhere cold I'd also advise putting on heated grips and hand guards (to keep the weather off). Metal hand guards will also protect the bike's brake and clutch levers during a fall. I've also seen hinged brake and clutch levers that should pivot rather than bend or break on impact. These are marketed as "unbreakable clutch levers" and companies such as Renthals produce them. Due the high cost of the unbreakable levers I decided not to go with them and took a couple of spare OEM levers instead.

After doing some off-road riding it became apparent that a mudguard extension would also be useful. Do an internet search for "mudflap" or "fenda extenda" and your motorbike make and model and hope that a company manufactures one. If you can't find any after market products then you may need to make your own. There are quite a few threads on motorbike forums on how to make your own. Basically:

1. Make a template from cardboard.
2. Cut the template shape from 2-4mm plastic (say from a plastic drum/carton)
3. Mold the cut plastic to desired shape using boiling water.
4. Spray shaped plastic with tough paint.
5. Attach new mudflap to end of your mudguard using nuts and bolts with large washers (to spread stress loads evenly to prevent cracking).

Additional Power Sockets

If you have electrical items that need charging you could install an additional 12v outlet socket. You can buy marine grade 12v accessory sockets with in-line fuse holders from marine shops, motorbike accessory shops and ebay. You can either install the socket outlet on your handlebars or fairing or install it under your seat.

Luggage

Hard or soft? Well that depends... How long are you going? Where are you going? What will you be doing there? There are many pages of forum discussions dedicated to this subject and I don't have a definitive answer or checklist for you. I do have a list of what I believe to be advantages and disadvantages of both.

Hard Luggage Advantages

• Structurally strong and protect contents
• Waterproof
• Secure (from theft)
• Spacious and easy to organise/store items
• Can be used as a seat/table/bench
• Offer more protection around the rider

Hard Luggage Disadvantages

• Heavy
• Large and Cumbersome
• Expensive
• Difficult (and possibly expensive) to fix if damaged
• The large size may encourage you to take more than you need

Soft Luggage Advantages

• Light
• Cheap
• Smaller and more malleable
• Easy to remove and carry around

Soft Luggage Disadvantages

• Not as secure (from theft)
• Not as structurally strong
• Not as waterproof
• Only provide soft protection around the rider (although it does mean that they are less painful if they hit you)

If you are buying hard luggage I would advise you to try and get the following features:

1. Luggage mounting racks with a ledge under the hard luggage boxes. This means that the ledge takes most of the weight of the luggage rather then the fixings attaching the box to the rack. Putting excessive load on only the fixings may result in them shearing off (and then you're in trouble!) With the ledge taking the weight the fixings only hold the luggage in place, with no shearing force. This results in a much stronger set-up.
2. Quick release system for detaching the hard luggage boxes from the mounting rack. Ensure this is a lockable system (so that only you can quickly remove your luggage!)
3. Light-weight, strong and waterproof hard luggage. Aluminum has become the standard. More expensive boxes have a beveled or angled bottom edge to them so that they are damaged less if caught on other objects.
4. Lockable boxes that you can also put padlocks on.

I also have the facility to quick-release the mounting racks from my motorbike. This helps reduce the overall weight of the bike when not carrying luggage. The quick release is lockable too.

You may want to buy or make internal bags for your hard luggage so you can remove the content of the boxes whilst they remain on the motorbike. Or use a number of smaller internal bags to divide the contents up within the boxes. e.g. tools and spares in one bag, clothes in another bag, camping equipment in another and washing kit in another. Hein Gericke and Eagle Creek do good internal bags.

Balance and Centre of Gravity

When loading your motorbike up with all your touring kit there is a risk that the balance and handling of the bike will be significantly altered. From what I have read it is a good idea to try and keep the extra weight low on the bike and as evenly balanced forward and backward as you can. Too much weight on the rear of the motorbike will cause instability. If you have a lot of weight on the rear try moving some of it forward into a tank bag or fixing your tool kit (in tool roll) in front of your windshield or skid plate / engine guard.

Ok. So we've prepared the bike for the trip. Now time to prepare the rider...