Quick bit of motorbike anatomy for you. The sprocket is the big cog attached to the rear wheel. The pinion is the small cog attached to the gears and the chain is the thing that joins to the pinion and the sprocket together, thus enabling the engine to drive the rear wheel. The owners manual and the Haynes manual for my motorbike both state in big, bold lettering that I must: “Always replace the chain and sprockets [sprocket and pinion] together. One should never be replaced without the other.” I think it should also have a footnote saying: “Unless you are planning on replacing your high quality German sprocket that still looks new after 24,000 miles with a cheap Argentinian sprocket. In this case we advise you keep the German sprocket.”
When I went to have my chain replaced in Puerto Madryn the guy in the shop did say that the sprocket looked good and I only needed to change the chain. He was probably trying to protect me from the crap Argentinian sprocket he had in his shop (the only one that would fit my bike). Unfortunately, being anal about these things, I insisted they replace the lot. In the last 2,000 miles the chain has been slackening at an alarming rate and the sprocket itself is wearing around the teeth. I only know the sprocket is Argentinian because a couple of Argentinian bikers told me when they stopped to chat whilst I was tightening the chain at a petrol station. Apparently the steel is inferior and the sprockets usually aren’t even a perfect circle, which can accelerate wear. Not something I checked before leaving the shop in Puerto Madryn. Bugger! They said the Japanese chain is good, although not an O-ring chain, but they would NEVER buy the Argentinian sprocket. Another lesson learnt.
It’s a shame because this just adds to the list of negative experiences I’ve had in a country I so very much wanted to enjoy. The Argentinians I’ve met in South America (and there have been quite a few) have been incredibly friendly and supremely proud of their country. Desperate for me to enjoy it too. They have offered me places to stay and suggested things for me to see and do but it just hasn’t worked out. A combination of the weather, wind, straight roads and mechanical issues have meant that I’ve just wanted to keep moving and get out as soon as possible. Perhaps in the future I’ll come back to try Patagonia again. Although if I do it won’t be on a motorbike.
It hasn’t all been bad though and I’m pleased to say I’m leaving on a high note. The Iguazu falls in north Argentina are pretty spectacular.
Anyway, we [the bike and I] are going to limp on to Sao Paulo, where I’ll store the bike with a friend for a couple of weeks before shipping it home. (Making sure that I’ve joined a breakdown recovery service before collecting the bike from UK customs.) I’ll see Brazil by bus and airplane. If the bike could fly (and I sometimes wish it could*) we’ve ridden far enough, in ten and a half months, to have flown round the circumference of the earth. I think that’ll probably do for now.
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* Dad, I’m half serious about the flying idea. If I learnt to fly (and then got rated on the 4-seater) and we split the costs how much do you think a trip round Africa would be. Can’t imagine it would take more than 4 weeks and I’m sure if we ran low on cash there’d be plenty of opportunities to earn a bit extra smuggling (medical supplies, arms, drugs, diamonds, etc.).
Useful Links
Plan your own motorbike touring adventure by visiting the Greasy Sprocket webiste.
See photos of Ollie’s trip at the Greasy Spocket Photo Gallery.
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