Posts Tagged ‘customs’

Delivering my motorbike to Santos port (Santos – 25,700 miles)

Wednesday, March 10th, 2010

The day finally arrived when I had to put my motorbike in a crate and leave it in a warehouse whilst Brazilian customs decide its fate. The sales manager (Victor) of my Brazilian shipping agents came with me to make sure I found the location and everything ran smoothly. This meant an early start because I had to ride to his office in the centre of Sao Paulo (10 miles) by 8.ooam so I could follow him in his car to the crating company in Santos (50 miles away) by 9.30am. Fortunately Sao Paulo’s motorcyclists ride like manics* so cars generally try to give them a wide berth. Sometimes enough for me to squeeze my bike with hard luggage through. This meant I only had to leave at 6.30am to cover the 10 miles to the office in 1.5 hours! Sao Paulo traffic is bad. We made it though and I’m pleased to say that no one lost a wing mirror or had their car scratched.

I removed the battery, windscreen and wing mirrors and then left them to it. Well, left them to it if you call “leaving them to it” hovering around, taking photos and intervening if I thought they were doing something that might harm the bike… Generally being a nuisance. Having said that. If I hadn’t intervened a couple of times they would have put my bike on its centre-stand. They also would have strapped the bike down (not using the centre-stand) to the full depression of the suspension. Again a potentially bad thing for a motorbike in transit. For those that are interested Horizons Unlimited give good crating instructions.

Photos below.

Measuring up.
measuring up to crate

Strapped down and ready for the rest of the crate. motorbike is all stapped down ready for covering

Many men with hammers.

many men and hammers crating my motorbike

Taking it out to the lorry for transportation to the warehouse.

taking the motorbike out to the loory for transport to the warehouse santos

On the lorry for the 5 mile journey to the warehouse. The most expensive 5 miles this motorbike has ever travelled (see costs below).

now the motorbike will be transported by lorry to the warehouse in Santos

Now for the costs…

  • Authenticating paperwork for Brazilian customs = R$150 / GBP56 / USD85 (This has increased form my previous post because customs have since asked for more documents. Looks like the fun and games have already begun.)
  • Crating the bike (see above) = R$1200 / GBP450 / USD680
  • Moving the crated motorbike by lorry from the crating company to the warehouse = R$430 / GBP160 / USD245 (yes, that’s GBP33 per mile!)
  • Brazilian Customs clearance and moving it from the warehouse onto the ship = R$1190 / GBP450 / USD675
  • Sailing it from Santos to Tilbury = R$219 / GBP82 / USD124
  • UK Customs clearance and getting it off the ship and onto the road at Tilbury = R$930 / GBP350 / USD527 (although not confirmed yet)

Giving a nice and juicy total of around R$4120 / GBP1550 / USD2335

Of course, if you wanted to crate and deliver the motorbike to the warehouse yourself (as many people do) you could reduce this by about 40%.

I can supply a more detailed breakdown of the costs for anyone that needs them and I’ll also update the horizons unlimited shipping database when I actually finish the process. (ie. I have ridden my motorbike out of Tilbury docks.)

I can’t tell you how effective they have been in exporting my motorbike from Brazil yet, because I won’t know until 25th March, but I can tell you that my shipping agents in Brazil have provided great customer service. When needed, they have come in person to translate and ensure the various processes are completed correctly (e.g. paperwork authentication and motorbike crating). They have also explained as much as they can about the intricacies of the export process and why it’s such a nightmare to import/export to/from this country. Their contact details are below (along with the crating company I used).

Nothing to do but wait now. So the plan is this; horse racing in Sao Paulo this weekend, then off to the Amazon for 10 days – including a 5 day trek into the jungle, back for a wedding in Minas the following weekend, then proper site seeing in Sao Paulo before heading back to Blighty at the beginning of April. Starting to get a little anxious about that last bit…

-

* On average there are 25 motorcycle accidents and 1 motorcyclist death a day in Sao Paulo. The highest in Brazil.





Shipping Agent in Sao Paulo – Santos – Brazil.

Contact: Victor Hugo, Overseas Brasil (Transporte e Logistica Ltda.).

victor.mello<AT>overseasbrasil.com.br

+55 11 27293460

www.overseasbrasil.com.br

Shipping motorbike from Brazil. Shipping motorbike to Brazil. Brazil shipping agent. Freight forwarder Brazil. Shipping motorbike from Brasil. Shipping motorbike to Brasil. Brasil shipping agent. Freight forwarder Brasil.

Crating company in Santos – Brazil

Contact: Cesar Pacheco, Export Paletizacao.

export<AT>cmg.com.br

+55 13 32321231

www.export-paletizacao.com.br

Crating motorbike in Santos. Motorbike crate. Santos. Brazil. Brasil.

An education in Brazilian bureaucracy

Thursday, March 4th, 2010

I’m English, I can’t sing and I’m no beauty. However, I reckon I’ve got more chance of winning Latin American Idol than getting my motorbike and possessions on a ship and out of Brazil in their entirety and on time.

I’ve heard that although trying to import anything into Brazil requires large amounts of patience and money, shipping items out of the country is supposed to be slightly easier and cheaper. Unfortunately I haven’t met anyone yet that has done it. In fact, Dave (a biker I met in Ecuador) rode to Rio de janeiro, made some inquiries and then promptly turned round to ride back to Buenos Aires to ship his motorbike from Argentina instead. However, I promised some friends in Sao Paulo that I would spend their holidays with them at the end of this month so I’m shipping from Santos, 60 miles from Sao Paulo, regardless.

As you can imagine, shipping is a fairly common topic among motorbike tourers. How and where did you import? With whom and where are you exporting? etc. Many months ago a German biker in Panama gave me contact details of a hostal in Chile (Martina - villakunterbuntvalpo<AT>yahoo.de) that help bikers export their prise possessions from South America. After trying to engage freight companies in Brazil myself (with mixed results) the hostel owners in Chile set me up with a UK shipping agent with sister company in Sao Paulo. The Sao Paulo shipping agent will look after the Brazilian paperwork, help me crate the bike and put it on a ship out of Brazil. The UK shipping agent will then do all the UK paperwork for when my bike arrives at Tilbury docks in London, where I will hopefully unpack it and ride off into the sunset (or traffic jam on the M25). You still with me?

The people I’m dealing with in Sao Paulo are lovely, although I’m a slighly tense that I’m their first motorbike customer. So now to the process of exporting my bike. I’m complicating things slightly by shipping personal possessions in the crate with the bike (in my hard luggage and duffel bag). Apparently this requires a whole new set of checks and paperwork!

So…

  1. I’ve had to itemise and price everything that’s going in the crate.
  2. I’ve had to sign over power of attorney to 6 document processors/lawyers enabling them to crate a legal entity under my name that will be used to export my bike. Apparently it’s like creating a company for me that will dissolve in 6 months.
  3. This legal document, my passport, the itemised list of possessions, the original temporary import documents and my signature then had to be photocopied and authenticated. This was done at a special office (common in Brazil) and cost me about 5o USD. And yes, each set of documents had to be done at a different counter in the office.
  4. I then had to buy a plane ticket to prove I’m leaving the country as well. All this is then sent to the customs clearance officer in Santos. The customs clearance officer then decides whether everything is in order and the bike can be processed to leave. This can take between 2 and 14 days. The worrying bit here is that if s/he decides things are not correct s/he can hold up my bike, causing me to either have to change or miss my flight or leave the country before it does.
  5. The bike is provisionally booked to sail on a ship on 25th March. Normally I would have to deliver the bike to the warehouse 10 days before then but because I’m sending personal items with it I have to deliver it 15 days before sailing, as they anticipate “hold-ups”! I’ve also been warned that an English motorbike may arouse interest in an otherwise boring day of a customs official so perhaps they’ll open it up anyway. My response to this was, “well why don’t they have a good look at it all before we crate it up.” Apparently that’s not how it works. Everything is crated. They then look at the bill of lading, decide what they want to look at and remove anything that they don’t like (or do like – depending on how you look at it).
  6. Now to the crating. I was going to do this myself. I’ve since decided that if I let a professional do it we’re less likely to get picked up on some technicality. The crate though is the most expensive single component of the costs. Unfortunately my shipping agent doesn’t crate motorbikes themselves so they’ve found me a man that can. This adds another level of complexity, as they need to sort out whether the bike is crated at the crating company and then transported to the warehouse or the crate is transported to the warehouse and the man crates it there (although this second option may be against the warehouse company policy). On the face of it this all seems trivial but the negotiations and costs involved are not. All of this is exasperated by the fact that although my Spanish may have been adequate for this, my Portuguese is not. However, (my English speaking) Brazilian shipping agents have promised to look after me and they are even having someone meet me at the crating company in Santos to make sure I don’t get ripped off.

I am not oblivious to the fact that sending my bike home is probably going to cost more than its worth but I’ve grown quite attached to it over the past year to it’s coming with me. Also, if it’s this tricky exporting a motorbike I can’t imagine the paperwork involved in legally selling it here. The bike is linked to my passport so although temping, I’m not keen on trying to sell it illegally either.

Anyway, I’m off to Rio for a few days until I have to return to Sao Paulo to deliver the bike to Santos.

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Kayaking on the Amazon… well nearly the Amazon! (Tena 14,897 miles)

Friday, November 20th, 2009

I met my current traveling companion whilst waiting for a rather irritable Ecuadoran customs official to process our motorbikes at the border. Dave started his trip from London about 1 week before I flew to Los Angeles to start mine. In the time it has taken me to amble my way south from the States he has ridden half way round the world (through Europe, Russia, Mongolia, Korea and the Americas). He’s only clocked about 10,000 more miles than me too! We all have our own way of doing things I guess.

Riding into the mountains

I have no idea why but the landscape in the northern Ecuador appears to be very different to southern Columbia, even though the countries are adjacent. More barren mountains and less vegetation. Had a quick stopover in Otavalo, where we had breakfast with an doddery old Canadian that couldn’t seem to grasp we were traveling by motorbike and not bicycle. After the third correction I just gave up and carried on the conversation as if we had bicycles. I think Dave got through to him in the end. Stopped for the obligatory tourist activity of photos and passport stamp at the equator only to see a group of Ecuadoran soldiers doing the same.

In Quito I saw my first political demonstration in South America. A crowd of banner and flaming torch wielding students and teachers protesting outside the Palacio Municipal. We were going to take photos but didn’t think the rows of riot police would appreciate it, so chickened out.

Then onto Tena for some kayaking on the edge of the Amazon rain-forest. The river isn’t actually called the Amazon but it’s a tributary so Dave and I have decided it’s close enough… In South American style our lesson was more of a “learn as you do” format. For example, our teacher only told us how to enter and exit rapids after we’d bounced our way through the first one. Dave’s day was made that much harder because he had to rely on my dodgy translation of instructions from our Spanish speaking instructor. However, now I’ve learnt to successfully roll I’m hooked. Looks like a river with rapids will have to be added to the ever growing list of living location criteria.

Kayak school on the Amazon

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Welcome to Columbia. We’ll take your bike please! (Cartagena)

Wednesday, October 28th, 2009

The boat trip round the San Blas Islands and onto Columbia was everything I’d been told it would be. Snorkeling on reefs, swinging from the rigging into the sea, eating fresh bbq’d lobster on deserted Caribbean islands, etc. I don’t think I’ll be sailing home to the UK though, as the thought of nothing but sea for 3 to 4 weeks is not as appealing as I first expected it to be.

Unfortunately our arrival into Columbia has not been a smooth one. The Starlotte (our sailing boat) has made this trip many times without problems. However, this time I think a local (Columbian run) competitor boat has complained and we are being made an example of. I’ll explain how we got into this mess but the upshot is that all of our motorbikes have been impounded by the port authorities and they are currently deciding what they’re going to do. The process is painfully slow. This is the morning of our third day and it appears that nothing has moved forward. Here’s what happened.

Our boat dropped anchor at about 1pm in Cartagena port. The captain passed out passports and bike papers to the port agent and we had lunch. The stamping of passports is known to be very slow so the usual practice is to unload the motorbikes in the afternoon, whilst waiting for the passports to be returned. If you get them back before customs closes you can register your bike at customs and be on your way. If not then you take your bike to your hostel and register with customs it in the morning. Apparently they’ve been doing it like this for years and although it is technically illegal it is tolerated. Not this time!

As expected the passports came back after customs had closed but this time the port authorities were waiting for us as we returned to our bikes on the shore. After much to-ing and fro-ing (and at one point a BMW 1200 GS toppling off the jetty and into the sea – it wasn’t deep and we managed to recover it) we were escorted in convoy to Colombian customs where they impounded all of our bikes.

As I said, it’s been a few days now and it doesn’t feel like we’re getting anywhere. I don’t think they know what to do with us because this situation hasn’t arisen recently. If things don’t improve today I reckon people might start to get their embassies involved. Off for another day at customs (via a bit of site-seeing round the largest of the 7 forts built here). Will let you know how it goes. As an aside, Cartagena is a beautiful town. In fact I could probably live in the old town.


Postscript (Wednesday evening) – ALL SORTED. Someone somewhere has made the problem go away so we finally have the bikes out of customs and safely locked up nearby. Joy.

Like taking candy from a baby (San Jose)

Monday, October 12th, 2009

Last night I was talking with one of the owners at the hostel, here in San Jose, about a girl that had her US$1000 camera and her wallet stolen at a bus stop nearby. The usual stuff. Being careful with your possessions and not showing items of value in public. It’s sad but not surprising she got her camera stolen when it was in an expensive looking camera case. What do you expect to happen if you’re not careful? Why don’t tourists realise they’re easy targets? etc.

Oh how foolish I feel now. I’ve just come back from a rather slick and, in my opinion, very ballsy scam orchestrated by a guy called Tony. I doubt I’ll see Tony again. There’s a chance that the owners of my hostel might, which will become clear, and I hope they break his legs. However, when I look back at the chain of events it is me that is to blame and I’ll have to put this down to a US$150 lesson in naivety and misplaced trust. When you read the following I’m sure you will be amazed at how easily I was conned and nothing like that would happen to you. All I can say in my defense is that a culmination of small reassurances, subterfuge and my overwhelming desire to fix my bike enabled Tony to rip me off like a tourist…

As you know I have some brake parts being shipped over from England and unfortunately they appear to be held up in customs at San Jose airport. This afternoon I got talking to a guy called Tony in the sitting room of our hostel. Tony said he lived on the coast and was in San Jose for business. I assumed Tony was staying here because he was in the hostel. I later found out that he had talked his way in by saying he was waiting for friends to turn up before he checked in. He also did something clever by asking the front desk if he could change a $100 bill (within my earshot) and then making out that they couldn’t. Anyway, once Tony heard I had a package held up in customs he told me he had someone there that would be able to get it out today for about $50. He called the guy with my shipment number and said that we would meet him in town in an hour. When I look back on this it seems fantastical and I’m embarrassed at how easily fooled I’ve been but at the time I was so keen to get those parts that all reasonable judgement was put aside. So off we walked to a casino bar in town to meet the guy. As we entered the establishment Tony acted as if he was a regular and security staff knew him, although on reflection the nods he gave people weren’t actually reciprocated. I bought us a couple of drinks and gave him the 20,000 colones for my package from customs and also 55,000 colones for the US$100 he needed to change. He put both on the bar in front of us. Why I didn’t ask for his US$100 there and then I do not know but we were talking about places to for me to visit, if he could visit me in England, his business plans, trust, locals ripping of tourists, etc. and it just didn’t feel like the right time. He also gave the impression that he frequented the place often and had an account there. All of which went some way to reassuring me that he was genuine, including the fact that I met him in my hostel. After a couple of minutes of chat he indicated that the guy with my package was in the doorway behind me, picked up ALL the money, said he’d be back in a couple of minutes and was gone. By the time my slow brain realised he had left with EVERYTHING and I had NOTHING of his and no information about him he must have been long gone (and chuckling to himself all the way). Like taking candy from a baby.

I asked the bar lady if she knew him and she said she’d seen him a few times before but he didn’t have an account. Customers didn’t have accounts. I went downstairs and asked the security manager where he had gone and if they could get me an image of us from their cameras. Apparently he had walked out quickly and the CCTV footage was too dark to get a clear shot of us. I have no idea what I would have done with the image though, especially as the curcumstances by which I’d pretty much ripped myself off were so absurd I doubt the police could have done much but laugh. I can see it now: “So you gave this guy US$150 in cash, in a bar in the centre of town about an hour after meeting him?” “Well my dear little gringo, you deserve to lose that money.”

After 20 mintues I decided to head back to the hostel in the vain hope that someone might know something about him, although by this time I guessed that he probably wasn’t staying there. Turns out that they do know him but only because he ripped another couple off in a similar fashion the week before! Unfortunately a failure of communication between staff prevented anyone from alerting me to this at the time. One of the staff that knew who he was is out of the country and the other one either didn’t register it was him or didn’t think it important enough to tell anyone! Also, by talking to various different groups in the hostel Tony managed to create the impression that enough, disconnected people knew him for others to assume he was legitimate. It was only afterwards we all discovered that none of us did. I actually admire the guy for having the balls to come into a locked building and run the same scam in a hostel only a week or so after pulling it off the first time. I’m a bit miffed at the hostel for not identifying him and throwing him out immediately. But mostly I’m surprised and ashamed at how easily I was conned. The funny thing is that at times I thought I might be being conned or would soon be robbed in an alley but once we were into it I didn’t want to accuse him or make a scene. How English is that?!?

With any luck he’ll be back to pick up some other fool before I leave and justice can be metered out. Although he was twitching and yawning like he had a coke habit so I’m undecided on vengance or forgiveness as yet. I can always leave San Jose (just $150 lighter) whereas he may be stuck here in some kind of miserable drugs rut. What goes around come around.

Crossing into Honduras was much easier than expected (Santa Rosa de Coban – 10,342 miles)

Monday, September 7th, 2009

I left Santa Ana (a lovely town in Northern El Salvador) expecting to have a long, difficult and expensive border crossing into Honduras. I wasn´t worried about the political situation because I´d read and heard that it was improving and most of the trouble was on the Nicaraguan border. It was the reports I´d read of long bureaucratic delays, high fees and bribes required to get a vehicle over the border that bothered me. Even my Footprint guide said charges differ from day to day and individual crossing point and, I quote: “You will have to pass through Migracion, Registro, Transito, Cuarentena, Administracion, Secretaria and then a police vehicle check. At each stage you will be asked for money, for which you will not always get a receipt.” Not encouraging.

I counldn´t have been more wrong. After a slightly nervous start, when I thought a Salvadoran border guard told me I had the wrong papers, it all went like clockwork.  The Salvadoran and Honduran customs officials took all my documents and seemed to pass them among themselves and process everything at once, including photocopying (which I´ve never experienced before). The lady on the Honduran desk (who seemed to be coordinating everything) even gave me an ice lolly while I waited. She charged me US$45, which is towards the top end of the estimates in my guide book and I´m not sure she gave me a receipt. However, I didn´t ask for one and as far as I´m concerned if they were skimming off the top they can have it for the ease of service (and the ice lolly).

As can be expected after a military coup, they are fairly serious about their police and army road checks here. I was stopped and papers checked 3 times in within the first 5 miles from the border. Once through that though the winding road though mountain forest was spectacular (and blissfully chilly too). Although I soon realised that gazing at the scenery ran the risk of falling into one of the many cavernous potholes that litter the roads. These are the worst paved roads I´ve ever ridden on. There´s no right or wrong side of the road. You just use the section that looks the best. Makes for some pretty hairy driving and I saw a 3 car collision in my first 20 minutes. I also noticed something odd and it took a while before I figured out what was going on. Every so often I would pass locals filling the holes in the road with earth. When vehicles passed some would wave and hold out their hands. I haven´t checked this with anyone but I think that they fill in the holes and ask motorists for money for doing so. Almost like a private road maintenance scheme. I like their entrepreneurial spirit even if it is slightly dangerous. It´s a shame the government can’t afford more proper road maintenance crews but I guess they´ve got other things on their plate at the moment.

Watched my first film in Spanish this evening (with no subtitles). Fortunately it was a cartoon (Ice Age 3) so it didn´t matter than I couldn´t understand half of what was said. Cigar factory tomorrow.

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I hate border crossing facilitators (El Tunco, El Salvador 10,007 miles)

Wednesday, August 26th, 2009

I don´t look forward to border crossing days. It´s always baking hot and invariably there´s lots of moving from one desk to another desk and no matter what I´ve already photocopied they need something else. What I especially dislike however are the lazy b@stads that immediately rush up to you before you´ve even stopped your bike to “assist” you with the process. Do they not realise that if you´re riding a motorbike over here on your own you can probably make it over a border by yourself. If people ask for their help then fine. If they say they don´t need it then leave them alone.

I had the pleasure of two of these “border crossing facilitators” today. The first was (as predicted) talking before I´d even switched off my engine. I guess the theory is to get as much out as possible because you´ve then provided a service and can charge for it. My response was to look at him blankly and say that I couldn´t hear anything through my helmet and ear plugs. He was then joined by a second “facilitator” (a boy) as I took off my helmet and spoke to the customs official. Bear in mind that ít was about 30 degC and I´m in bike kit so sweating buckets. Everywhere I turned these two were there, jostling to get in my way. I asked them what they wanted. They said they didn´t want anything but they could help me with what I needed to do. After I said I didn´t need any help thanks the adult asked me for a tip. He actually used the word for a tip! What the f*ck for? All you´ve done is got in my way! At this point I nearly lost it. However, rather than causing a scene I just asked him what the tip was for. He couldn´t answer so walked off. The kid on the other hand took a different approach. He would walk a couple of steps ahead of me wherever I went and repeat any instruction I was given by an official. You know the annoying game where you repeat everything someone says. It was much like that. (e.g. The lady at vehicle registration tells me to go to migration. He tells me to go to migration and starts walking in front of me in that direction.) He eventually gave up after I stopped him and repeatedly told him I had no money for him.

I understand that unemployment is high and perhaps I might have been a little harsh but I can´t stand pushy, lazy people. They were both able bodied and could have done any number of jobs instead of hassling people that didn´t want their help. There´s a demand for vehicle washers at check points and borders. They could have done that. I used to in the UK. They were just lazy.

To top the experience off a money changer at the border short changed me. I´m not sure if he was embarrassed or annoyed when I pointed out the discrepancy but he wasn´t smiling when he handed over the balance. All together not the lasting impression I wanted of Guatemala.

El Salvador seems pretty cool though. Sitting in a bar by the sea with waves crashing just metres away. Perhaps I´ll have a go at surfing…

Guatemalan roads are the best and worst so far – Flores (8,086 miles)

Monday, August 3rd, 2009

Two mildly embarrassing things happened to me at Guatemalan customs today. On both occasions I felt like a bit of a tit and Guatemalans came over as a very accommodating people. On the first occasion I was trying to retrieve something from one of my luggage boxes and I managed to push my fully laden bike over in front of a crowd. Fortunately a couple of guys rushed over to help me pick it up, followed by a quick chat about the bike and my trip. On the second occasion I joined the end of a long queue to pay the import fee for my bike only to be told by someone that I could jump to the front. Not believing the lady that told me, I started to walk across the hall to the original customs desk to check. At which point a man with a uniform and a pump action shotgun took my papers and walked me to the front of the queue to pay. I apologised to anyone that would listen, thinking they would all be pissed off, only to be smiled at and gestured to the front. Result!

Now to the roads of Guatemala. On leaving the border I became increasingly concerned as the road changed from pot-holed tarmac, to gravel, to compacted hardcore, to dreaded clay (and it was starting to rain). I’ve been told that I must not hit my head hard again for at least another two weeks so you can imagine what I was thinking. And then, just as I was wondering whether to turn back and wait for dry weather I saw road building machines in the distance. Beautiful road building machines, laying brand, spanking new tarmac. Smooth, grippy tarmac with not a speed bump in sight. Happy days. However, it soon became apparent that rather than use speed bumps to slow traffic the Guatemalan government use occasional old sections of road with huge potholes and an extensive variety of wandering animals. I managed to avoid a majority of the larger holes but I did lose a game of chicken against a rather confident pig.

I´m staying on a cool little island called Flores in the middle of Lake Petén Itzá. No firm plans for tomorrow yet beyond fixing my front brakes in the morning. They are starting to bind to my brake discs, which I would image is from all the dirt, dust and other gunk coming up from the roads.

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We both arrived safely in Los Angeles

Thursday, April 23rd, 2009

My bike and I both landed in LA safely. After the initial discomfort of being called “motorcycle guy” over the tannoy system at US Customs the process of getting my bike on the road was surprisingly quick and easy. Customs paperwork took 15 minutes and un-crating the bike took about another 25 minutes. It turns out that they stopped importing my make and model of bike quite a few years ago. So the rarity of the bike and the UK number plate seems to attract the interest of motorbike geek and regular punter alike. Much of the time I have no idea what the motorbike geeks are saying but smiling, nodding and well timed murmur of agreement tends to do the trick.

Everyone is incredibly friendly and helpful over here. Even the park ranger who almost towed my bike (because he didn’t think the number plate was real) seemed to be very jovial about it. After a little small talk he let us both go.

Now we’re on the road I’m going to get out of LA as soon as possible. I’m not that keen on this city.