Posts Tagged ‘brazil’

These guys can make fire in the rain! (A jungle camp 200 miles north of Manaus)

Monday, March 22nd, 2010

And this was no European rain. This was proper Amazonian rain forest rain. Heavy bombs of water, drenching anything they came into contact with. Thankfully we only had to witness this miraculous incendiary feat on the final morning of our jungle trek. Those that were awake had been enjoying the electric light show above from the comfort of their hammocks as thunder and lightning rolled past our jungle camp. After about an hour into the show our head guide shouted for everyone to pack up and huddle under the palm leaf shelter because it was going to rain. Apparently he could hear it approaching. (It all sounded the same to me. I guess that’s why he’s a guide.) Sure enough, within 10 minutes the rain arrived; soaking anything/anyone that hadn’t made it under the shelter in time. The downpour started to ease after another 20 minutes and just as we [tourists] had resigned ourselves to no breakfast before the 3 hour hike and 1 hour boat ride back to the jungle lodge the guides darted out, cut palm branches (to shelter the fire place), cut the wet layers off the logs and started a roaring fire… in the rain. Breakfast was served. Amazing!

At the risk of sounding like an ungrateful tourist, watching our guides make fire in the rain was probably the most spectacular thing I experienced in the Amazon. The problem is on my part. I’ve had my expectations skewed by nature programs and films. It wasn’t the wildlife. I knew that we might not see many animals. The jungle is vast and they have better places to be than hanging around paths cut by humans. It was the vegetation that let me down. I had visions of thick, impenetrable jungle and vines, all shrouded in mist. (Perhaps with the odd monkey or parrot occasionally swinging/flying into view.) In reality, the canopy (60 metres above) starves the rest of the jungle of sunlight. So in the desperate race upwards many plants don’t waste energy producing lots of leaves and fruits at our level. It all happens in the canopy above. My deflated expectations aside, it was still a hugely enjoyable experience; spotting monkeys and birds (albeit in the canopy 60 metres above), catching piranhas and caymans, learning about the medicinal properties of plants and trees, making blowpipes, canoeing through flooded forest channels, watching sunrise and sunset from the river, etc. It’s worth going, just don’t expect many David Attenborough moments.

After being shown this extremely large and well camouflaged tarantula every nature poo thereafter was a rather tense affair.

Large spider in the Amazon rain forest

Our guide holding a rather large taranchula

I also have a vague recollection of buying (perhaps sponsoring) a couple of Amazon rain forest tress for 50 pence each when I was in junior school. I’ve half a mind to try and claim a couple of the mahogany trees I saw. At 6 metres circumference and 60 metres tall they must be worth a fortune now. Not a bad little investment… I wonder if I still have the certificate somewhere.

Paddling on the Rio Negra Amazon

-


Delivering my motorbike to Santos port (Santos – 25,700 miles)

Wednesday, March 10th, 2010

The day finally arrived when I had to put my motorbike in a crate and leave it in a warehouse whilst Brazilian customs decide its fate. The sales manager (Victor) of my Brazilian shipping agents came with me to make sure I found the location and everything ran smoothly. This meant an early start because I had to ride to his office in the centre of Sao Paulo (10 miles) by 8.ooam so I could follow him in his car to the crating company in Santos (50 miles away) by 9.30am. Fortunately Sao Paulo’s motorcyclists ride like manics* so cars generally try to give them a wide berth. Sometimes enough for me to squeeze my bike with hard luggage through. This meant I only had to leave at 6.30am to cover the 10 miles to the office in 1.5 hours! Sao Paulo traffic is bad. We made it though and I’m pleased to say that no one lost a wing mirror or had their car scratched.

I removed the battery, windscreen and wing mirrors and then left them to it. Well, left them to it if you call “leaving them to it” hovering around, taking photos and intervening if I thought they were doing something that might harm the bike… Generally being a nuisance. Having said that. If I hadn’t intervened a couple of times they would have put my bike on its centre-stand. They also would have strapped the bike down (not using the centre-stand) to the full depression of the suspension. Again a potentially bad thing for a motorbike in transit. For those that are interested Horizons Unlimited give good crating instructions.

Photos below.

Measuring up.
measuring up to crate

Strapped down and ready for the rest of the crate. motorbike is all stapped down ready for covering

Many men with hammers.

many men and hammers crating my motorbike

Taking it out to the lorry for transportation to the warehouse.

taking the motorbike out to the loory for transport to the warehouse santos

On the lorry for the 5 mile journey to the warehouse. The most expensive 5 miles this motorbike has ever travelled (see costs below).

now the motorbike will be transported by lorry to the warehouse in Santos

Now for the costs…

  • Authenticating paperwork for Brazilian customs = R$150 / GBP56 / USD85 (This has increased form my previous post because customs have since asked for more documents. Looks like the fun and games have already begun.)
  • Crating the bike (see above) = R$1200 / GBP450 / USD680
  • Moving the crated motorbike by lorry from the crating company to the warehouse = R$430 / GBP160 / USD245 (yes, that’s GBP33 per mile!)
  • Brazilian Customs clearance and moving it from the warehouse onto the ship = R$1190 / GBP450 / USD675
  • Sailing it from Santos to Tilbury = R$219 / GBP82 / USD124
  • UK Customs clearance and getting it off the ship and onto the road at Tilbury = R$930 / GBP350 / USD527 (although not confirmed yet)

Giving a nice and juicy total of around R$4120 / GBP1550 / USD2335

Of course, if you wanted to crate and deliver the motorbike to the warehouse yourself (as many people do) you could reduce this by about 40%.

I can supply a more detailed breakdown of the costs for anyone that needs them and I’ll also update the horizons unlimited shipping database when I actually finish the process. (ie. I have ridden my motorbike out of Tilbury docks.)

I can’t tell you how effective they have been in exporting my motorbike from Brazil yet, because I won’t know until 25th March, but I can tell you that my shipping agents in Brazil have provided great customer service. When needed, they have come in person to translate and ensure the various processes are completed correctly (e.g. paperwork authentication and motorbike crating). They have also explained as much as they can about the intricacies of the export process and why it’s such a nightmare to import/export to/from this country. Their contact details are below (along with the crating company I used).

Nothing to do but wait now. So the plan is this; horse racing in Sao Paulo this weekend, then off to the Amazon for 10 days – including a 5 day trek into the jungle, back for a wedding in Minas the following weekend, then proper site seeing in Sao Paulo before heading back to Blighty at the beginning of April. Starting to get a little anxious about that last bit…

-

* On average there are 25 motorcycle accidents and 1 motorcyclist death a day in Sao Paulo. The highest in Brazil.





Shipping Agent in Sao Paulo – Santos – Brazil.

Contact: Victor Hugo, Overseas Brasil (Transporte e Logistica Ltda.).

victor.mello<AT>overseasbrasil.com.br

+55 11 27293460

www.overseasbrasil.com.br

Shipping motorbike from Brazil. Shipping motorbike to Brazil. Brazil shipping agent. Freight forwarder Brazil. Shipping motorbike from Brasil. Shipping motorbike to Brasil. Brasil shipping agent. Freight forwarder Brasil.

Crating company in Santos – Brazil

Contact: Cesar Pacheco, Export Paletizacao.

export<AT>cmg.com.br

+55 13 32321231

www.export-paletizacao.com.br

Crating motorbike in Santos. Motorbike crate. Santos. Brazil. Brasil.

An education in Brazilian bureaucracy

Thursday, March 4th, 2010

I’m English, I can’t sing and I’m no beauty. However, I reckon I’ve got more chance of winning Latin American Idol than getting my motorbike and possessions on a ship and out of Brazil in their entirety and on time.

I’ve heard that although trying to import anything into Brazil requires large amounts of patience and money, shipping items out of the country is supposed to be slightly easier and cheaper. Unfortunately I haven’t met anyone yet that has done it. In fact, Dave (a biker I met in Ecuador) rode to Rio de janeiro, made some inquiries and then promptly turned round to ride back to Buenos Aires to ship his motorbike from Argentina instead. However, I promised some friends in Sao Paulo that I would spend their holidays with them at the end of this month so I’m shipping from Santos, 60 miles from Sao Paulo, regardless.

As you can imagine, shipping is a fairly common topic among motorbike tourers. How and where did you import? With whom and where are you exporting? etc. Many months ago a German biker in Panama gave me contact details of a hostal in Chile (Martina - villakunterbuntvalpo<AT>yahoo.de) that help bikers export their prise possessions from South America. After trying to engage freight companies in Brazil myself (with mixed results) the hostel owners in Chile set me up with a UK shipping agent with sister company in Sao Paulo. The Sao Paulo shipping agent will look after the Brazilian paperwork, help me crate the bike and put it on a ship out of Brazil. The UK shipping agent will then do all the UK paperwork for when my bike arrives at Tilbury docks in London, where I will hopefully unpack it and ride off into the sunset (or traffic jam on the M25). You still with me?

The people I’m dealing with in Sao Paulo are lovely, although I’m a slighly tense that I’m their first motorbike customer. So now to the process of exporting my bike. I’m complicating things slightly by shipping personal possessions in the crate with the bike (in my hard luggage and duffel bag). Apparently this requires a whole new set of checks and paperwork!

So…

  1. I’ve had to itemise and price everything that’s going in the crate.
  2. I’ve had to sign over power of attorney to 6 document processors/lawyers enabling them to crate a legal entity under my name that will be used to export my bike. Apparently it’s like creating a company for me that will dissolve in 6 months.
  3. This legal document, my passport, the itemised list of possessions, the original temporary import documents and my signature then had to be photocopied and authenticated. This was done at a special office (common in Brazil) and cost me about 5o USD. And yes, each set of documents had to be done at a different counter in the office.
  4. I then had to buy a plane ticket to prove I’m leaving the country as well. All this is then sent to the customs clearance officer in Santos. The customs clearance officer then decides whether everything is in order and the bike can be processed to leave. This can take between 2 and 14 days. The worrying bit here is that if s/he decides things are not correct s/he can hold up my bike, causing me to either have to change or miss my flight or leave the country before it does.
  5. The bike is provisionally booked to sail on a ship on 25th March. Normally I would have to deliver the bike to the warehouse 10 days before then but because I’m sending personal items with it I have to deliver it 15 days before sailing, as they anticipate “hold-ups”! I’ve also been warned that an English motorbike may arouse interest in an otherwise boring day of a customs official so perhaps they’ll open it up anyway. My response to this was, “well why don’t they have a good look at it all before we crate it up.” Apparently that’s not how it works. Everything is crated. They then look at the bill of lading, decide what they want to look at and remove anything that they don’t like (or do like – depending on how you look at it).
  6. Now to the crating. I was going to do this myself. I’ve since decided that if I let a professional do it we’re less likely to get picked up on some technicality. The crate though is the most expensive single component of the costs. Unfortunately my shipping agent doesn’t crate motorbikes themselves so they’ve found me a man that can. This adds another level of complexity, as they need to sort out whether the bike is crated at the crating company and then transported to the warehouse or the crate is transported to the warehouse and the man crates it there (although this second option may be against the warehouse company policy). On the face of it this all seems trivial but the negotiations and costs involved are not. All of this is exasperated by the fact that although my Spanish may have been adequate for this, my Portuguese is not. However, (my English speaking) Brazilian shipping agents have promised to look after me and they are even having someone meet me at the crating company in Santos to make sure I don’t get ripped off.

I am not oblivious to the fact that sending my bike home is probably going to cost more than its worth but I’ve grown quite attached to it over the past year to it’s coming with me. Also, if it’s this tricky exporting a motorbike I can’t imagine the paperwork involved in legally selling it here. The bike is linked to my passport so although temping, I’m not keen on trying to sell it illegally either.

Anyway, I’m off to Rio for a few days until I have to return to Sao Paulo to deliver the bike to Santos.

Useful Links

Plan your own motorbike touring adventure by visiting the Greasy Sprocket webiste.

See photos of Ollie’s trip at the Greasy Spocket Photo Gallery.

Become a fan on facebook.

Subscribe to this blog Subscribe to this blog

Brazil smells good (Sao Paulo – 25,648 miles)

Saturday, February 27th, 2010

Southern Brazil is thick, green jungle. In fact anything that isn’t a mammal or man-made is green. I also get the feeling that if the constant maintenance was stopped the tarmac would very quickly be reclaimed by the vegetation. And the smells seem to be much stronger here: cut grass, cut wood, burning wood, baking cereals, processing meats, new tarmac, etc. I’m even starting to like the sickly sweet smell of the burnt ethanol they use for motor fuel. Oh, and the roads have curves in them. Long, sweeping bends. Tight hairpins. On-camber. Off-camber. Rising. Falling. The lot. Made all the more interesting by the presence of numerous lorries. I know in my previous post I said the bike and I would limp to Sao Paulo but after 20 minutes on the BR-116 from Curitiba I couldn’t help myself. I think the technical term my brother-in-law uses is “progressing”. Others may know it as “thrashing the sh*t out of it”. Whatever you want to call it, I’ve had an awesome day. I’d forgotten how much fun it is to ride a motorbike. So much so that I’m even toying with the idea of replacing my chain and sprockets (again) to continue on the bike for the next couple of weeks. Or should I finish riding the bike on a high note? I’ll sleep on it and decided in the morning.

This chain should be nice and snug to the sprocket… Unfortunately, it ain’t!

Extremely worn chain and sprocket on a Honda XL650 Transalp