Travels on a Motorbike

A fair chunk of the 130 miles from Potosi to Uyuni was spent pondering whether I should try and cross the Uyuni salt flats on my motorbike or take a group tour in a 4×4. I knew that people did cross them on bicycles and motorbikes. I just didn’t know how or whether they did it during wet season. The clincher was finding out that the flats are 4,600 square miles of salty wilderness (with no petrol stations). With a 22o mile fuel capacity and my mixed previous navigation record I felt the chances of me coming out the other side were slim. So with my tail between my legs I opted for the 3 day tour by Toyota Land Cruiser.

And thank God I chickened out. For starters, the 15 mile road to the entrance was one long mud-slick. Once inside, the recent rain had transformed the flats into a 4,600 square mile, 2-10cm deep salty puddle. Another factor I hadn’t considered until I saw drivers tying protective sheets under the engines of the 4x4s was that we were in probably the most corrosive environment in the world for cars and motorbikes. Even if I hadn’t slid off in the enormous puddle, got lost or run out of fuel I doubt I would have had much of a bike left by the end. What was I thinking even considering it! As if to illustrate this point, as I was discussing this with Oscar (our guide/driver) we broke down. Electrical problems, which Oscar fixed before too long.

You’ll see from the photos that the Toyota Land Cruiser is the vehicle of choice. According to Oscar they’ve tried pretty much all the other 4x4s and only the Toyota can cope, and even they only last for about 2 years. He also assured me that only 4x4s come onto the flats in the wet season. So I feel somewhat vindicated.

Ok. Now for the tour itself. 500 mile round trip in a 4×4, covering: salt flats, multicoloured mountains, volcanoes, steaming geysers, thermal baths, strange coloured lakes, odd rock formations and deserts. Whilst all of it is reasonably interesting to look at and some of the driving is fun (and there’s a lot of driving) the only absolutely awe-inspiring part is the salt flats. If you’re pushed for time or money I’d suggest just doing the 1 day salt flats tour. However, I’ve already seen quite a few multicoloured mountains, volcanoes, steaming geysers, thermal baths, strange coloured lakes, odd rock formations and deserts during this trip so I may have been a bit spoilt. Sod it. Do the 3 day tour. The pre-breakfast dip in the thermal baths on the last day is worth it.